Step 1: Even Out the Skin
Everyone has something she wants to cover up. Dark circles are probably the biggest problem, but there are also broken capillaries, blemishes, and other skin discolorations. You don’t have to cover every square inch of your face with a thick coat of base. Use a foundation to touch up only those areas that need it, just to even out your skin tone.
Foundations come in liquid, cream, cake, and stick form, but makeup artists say stick varieties are the most user-friendly. “A stick foundation is sheer enough to blend over undereye circles and opaque enough to conceal a pimple,” says New York City makeup artist Liz Michael. Choose one that’s creamy but not too greasy in texture, neutral or yellow-based (since yellow tones neutralize the red in your skin), and a shade that matches your natural skin tone exactly. The best place to test foundations is along the jawline — the color that disappears into your skin is the right one for you.
If you’re in a rush, try mixing your foundation and moisturizer — it will save you the time of slathering on two products, and it will simplify application. “It’s easier to put on a tinted moisturizer than it is to use a sponge to get a full coverage of foundation,” says Tobi Britton, owner of the Makeup Shop in New York.
Step 2: Define the Eyes
The first thing people notice about a person is her eyes, so it’s no surprise that the experts recommend playing them up. The easiest way to do this is with mascara. “A coat of mascara really opens up the eyes and makes you look more awake,” says makeup artist Sonia Kashuk.
Like foundation, mascara is available in a variety of formulas. Professional makeup artists use thickening mascaras on almost everyone, except those with naturally full lashes, in which case they switch to a lighter-formula lash darkener. If you wear contact lenses, make sure that the mascara you use has been ophthalmologist tested.
Black mascara works on just about anyone. But if your lashes are blond or red, try brown instead.
Step 3: Add Color
A hint of color on the cheeks or lips gives your face a healthy glow. Which feature you decide to play up depends partly on your complexion and partly on your taste. Women with light hair and pale complexions tend to feel washed out without blush. Women with darker hair and more color in their faces usually choose lipstick instead.
Blush is available in powders, creams, liquids, and gels. People with oily or problem skin are better off with a powder blush because it provides better coverage and a matte finish. Those with dry complexions should use a moisturizing cream blush. If your skin is normal, any type should work.
Selecting a shade is easy. Your face comes with its own palette: your natural flush. “The color of your cheeks just after exercise is your optimum shade,” says makeup artist Bobbi Brown.
Find the right spot for your blush by smiling and then applying it to the apple of your cheek and back toward the cartilage nub in the center of your ear. “Don’t let it go below the line created between the ear nub and nostril,” says Britton. “When your blush goes too low, it makes your face look wider.”
Choosing a lip color comes down almost exclusively to personal preference. Lip colors with sheer to creamy finishes are the most goof-proof to apply, since you don’t have to worry about staying exactly within the lines of your lips. Anything matte or opaque usually requires more precise application. Use your lips as a guide for choosing a color. Your natural lip color, deepened one shade, is your most wearable color.